On this page some schematics I've drawn up over the years. Since it is all handwork I can never guarantee that they're completely error free. However I am sure they will be a big help in doing a reapair. When reversing I tend to focus on stuff that's not out on the web already, with a few exceptions. Other than that I tend to focus on the somewhat "larger" designs which may be more complex but for that reason never surface.

Keep in mind that there's more interesting technical background stuff to be found throughout this webpage in the description of the various pedals in my collection.

And with this, a strong disclaimer.
Over the years, especially in, but far from limited to, the boohteek pedal world, there is a strong feeling that tracing a pedal, let alone publishing it, will cause all income for the manufacturer of the pedal to decrease straight away. Personally I think this is not true. However please consider all below intended by me to be able:
- to study and learn.
- To be able to perform a repair quick and effective.
- To modify/alter your pedal to your taste.

That's not to make a clone with the poor excuse that you do not have the money for the real thing.

And to you manufacturer!
Please consider all below is intended;
- for those who wish to study and learn like you once did.
- For those who wish to alter the product they bought from you to fit even more to their taste.
- But most importantly, for those who purchased your product and find out that having it fixed by you means a hefty repair tag, heavy shipping costs because you do not have a more local representative who can do this work (A simple NDA can cover that for you.) and multiple weeks waiting time while the next gig is "this friday".
- As well consider that, althoug the dawing may reference to your product, the drawing is mine. That includes copyright on the drawing. I do not put any claims on your product. Please do not try to do that on my product either.
- Trademarks do not apply either. The trademark may be on your product. Not on my drawing.
- Especially for US manufacturers, the DMCA is an US thing. It does not apply worldwide and will be ignored.

Keep in mind that there's more interesting technical background stuff to be found throughout this webpage in the description of the various pedals in my collection.

Some schematics:

Aria TD-1 Platinum Drive
Award Matchbox MB11 acoustic guitar preamp
Award Sessionmaster Direct Recording Preamp
Colorsound Overdriver original and reissue
Chandler tubedriver rack version
Ibanez WF-10 Wah-Fuzz
Ibanez CS-9
Ibanez CM-5 Classic Metal
Ibanez CD-5 Cyberdrive
Ibanez TM-5 Thrashmetal
Ibanez TK-999 Tubeking Japanese version (Noise reduction omitted)
Ibanez TK-999 Tubeking US version
Ibanez AD9 Delay
Ibanez Phasetone 707 / Phasetone II
Ibanez DSC10 Chorus
Ibanez RC99 Rotary Chorus
Ibanez BN-5 Black Noise
Ibanez PQL Parametric Equalizer
Ibanez FC-10 Fat Cat/ LM-7 LA Metal (schematic includes changes how to convert from one to the other
Ibanez CP-835 Compressor
Ibanez AD99 Analog Delay
Ibanez Sonic Distortion SD-9 (Complete and correct this time)
Ibanez FL303 Flanger
Ibanez FL-99 Classic Flange
Ibanez PH-99 Classic Phase
Ibanez AW-5 Auto Wah
Ibanez TL-5 Tremolo
Ibanez TK999HT Tubeking
Ibanez ST-9 Supertube
Ibanez OT-10 Octave
Ibanez NB-10 Noise Buster
Ibanez BCL/TC10 Bi Mode Chorus/Twin Cam Corus
Ibanez AF2 Airplane Flanger
Ibanez Jetlyzer
Ibanez 95 Renometer
Ibanez BB-9 Bottom Booster
Electro Harmonix Signal pad
Electro Harmonix Deluxe Octave Multiplexer 1325D version
Dapho E10AD Analog Delay
Ibanez Double Sound Fuzz Wah
Jen Double Sound Fuzz Wah
Boss CS-3 Compressor
Tycobrahe Pedalflanger
ProCo Rat
Carl Martin Heavy Drive
Carl Martin Hot Drive 'n Boost
Carl Martin Rock Drive
DOD FX15 swell pedal
Menatone Red Snapper
Maxon PT-999 Phasetone
Maxon True Tube Overdrive
Aria ACH-1/ Monarch ACH-7
Tokai TCO-1 Compressor
Monster effects Swamp Thang
HH Electronics Clockwork Concubine
DeArmond 1900 Phaser
Carlsbro Echo
Reussenzehn Blackface preamp
Reussenzehn Max Rohrig Booster
Teese RMC4 picture Wah

A few notes on:

PCB designing
I am in no way an authority or a saint in designing PCB layouts. However there are a few things which one might keep in mind when going into the design of PCB layouts.
- Get decent PCB layout software, not graphics software. This doesn't at all mean that a "student" version of a PCB design package which is either limited in amount of pins or has the printing disabled won't work. In the latter case there's ways to get around that. The main objective of PCB layout software as opposed to graphics programs is that PCB software is targetted on making sure there's no design errors in the layout. In the simple form which is totally suitable for effects layouts this means that the software will tell you that all connnections are made or that traces or pads are too close together, resulting in problems when etching the PCB. - When thinking about making multiple PCB's from one layout the option of not using stuff like press 'n peal or even worse, drawing on copper might be considered. The solution with rough PCB material with a photo positive layer doesn't have to be expensive. I've used a 200 watt lightbulb and a piece of standard glass for years before buying an UV table. - When designing that PCB, make sure to start off with a decent schematic which will generate a component list and a netlist. I've seen many people starting off with the PCB layout software straight away by dragging (physical) components onto the screen and starting to connect them. Naturally with all error checks disabled. - With the above in mind it comes clear that one has to understand the topology of PCB layout software. Depending on the program used the learning curve may be longer and/or more difficult. - Use that error check in a positive way. It's not there to tell you you made an error in a negative way but to help you avoid them. In countless cases I just "dumped" a component on the spot where it needed to be (regardless of wether there were traces in that spot already) and let the error check tell me what needed to be corrected. This approach is much faster than first attempting to make place and then placing the component, deleting connections (just in case) for which a simple relocation would've done.
- As for the techstuff behind it. Why do you place a component on the position it is in? A standard approach is to follow the schematic. A good thing, especially while debugging if it doesn't work but unforunately Components aren't physically shaped as their schematic counterpart. Therefore this appproach only works in general sense.
First of all identify the points where components are connected to a point (node) that has a high input resistance, for example, the inputs of an opamp. Having long connections to these points mean the whole PCB trace can act as an antenna for undesired noise. Therefore keep these connections as short as possible. In the same way of thinking, connections tied to a node with a low output resistance, for example the output of an opamp, may be longer as they aren't that vulnerable for noise.

- PCB designing is an art. That doesn't mean it should look like an artwork. Consider why you have a trace running the way it does. Does it look neat to have all these traces running exacly in parallel to each other, a.k.a. trace hugging? Fine but consider that having them run in parallel like this will cause crosstalk between them. Therefore analyse if there's a possibility of crosstal and if so, pull them apart, avoiding things like feedback later. Also, you may not like the 45 degrees traces and prefer the 90 degree angles. In the 2nd case however, the angle can act like an emitting antenna and if there's sufficient energy behind it, cause noise inside the pedal's case. An example of this is the output of a squarewave LFO for a tremolo which has a lot of energy in it's rising and falling sides.
Getting back on that artwork. A while ago I ran into a designer who more or less liked to mimick the PCB layout style of 70's designers. In that time all PCB design was done by hand and reroutying a trace in a different way meant pealing off black tape, therefore the designers tended to save space wherever they could.

Text, knobs and LED placing.
Again, I won't tell you what to do, however you might consider:
- First of all most people are right handed. Therefore text on the right side of buttons tends to become unreadable because your (right) hand convers it when twiddling other buttons.
- Get those knobs out of the way of your footswitch! You'll step on your knobs and eventually smash them.
- Don't put that LED next to the switch. You'll step on it sooner or later, pushing it inwards, even when it's next to the switch.You used a reflector so it cannot be pushed inward? How much dirt is there in the profile of your shoes after entering that muddy festival field ending up in that reflector?